Choe Chang Lani Dangtsi Nyingu

So ya la tengchog cha le min la duk
Shehgang hala nangwa zomki laha
sempe rewa drupsong drup la ha son

Gaga Tro Tro Nang Dang
Keepe tsawa tsuksong

Choe Change Lani Ngulphor di la
So ya la mantsig lensum don laaa Yop
Shey Gong ah la, nangwa Zom Kyi La
Rejay drebu Min Song. Min Laaaa Song.

Suprising fact #2348: Tibetans are pretty into their liquors. The previous stanzas are the words to a Tibetan Drinking song dedicated to Chang (pronounced Chong), a tibetan beer made from fermented Rice or Barley (Hey Julie, if you're reading this, you can drink it!). All of our group was pretty into giving it a taste, what we didn't expect was it to be made and served BY OUR TIBETAN LANGUAGE TEACHERS. hahahaha. This was a most excellent reward for our struggles in language classes. And they have impeccable timing as we just took our first weekly exam which was brutal in and of itself...Anyway, I really appreciate this particular custom. The beer we had was made from rice (our teachers said next time it would be barley and it would be fermented longer...the stuff we had wasn't very strong) Traditionally, one sings this song while serving the Chang. The special cup has three lumps of butter along the rim and a space which marks the place the drinker is supposed to dring from. The drinker then dips a finger into the cup and flicks it upwards three times as an offering to the gods (I encourage all of you to adopt this custom the next time you drink, it's a good sentiment right?) And now for the good part, the drinker has to chug the cup at the end of the song while the rest of the crowd chants Chik, Nyee, Soom (1, 2, 3) over and over again. Altogether it was a unique experience that was entirely unexpected to a mysticized culture that most of us envision as entirely pure and holy. HAHA. In addition, I have also had the song stuck in my head all day/weekend.

So far, we have had the most amazing time meeting some absolutely incredible individuals. One of the first nights we were here, a group of us stopped to eat at the Momo Cafe, a small sketchy looking joint with most excellent yogurt. And lo and behold, we sit next to a table that happen to be the leaders of the Tibetan Youth Congress. The TYC is one many NGOs dedicated to the freedom of Tibet. Unlike other groups, however, the TYC is very famous for its work and MANY members of the current parliament have served as heads of this noteworthy organization. Many of this organization also disagree with His Holiness and his policy of the Middle Way and want to fight. This creates a unique tension between younger and older generations....the fact that their thoughts may be in disagreement causes an indescribable heartache carried by many of those involved in the Free Tibet movement. It's very moving to hear both sides of the story...from the group that abandoned everything so they might have a chance at freedom and from those that have never seen their homeland but are fighting for the cause none-the-less. The TYC is also the group that regularly organizes Hunger Strikes and protests. It was here that we first heard about the "No Losar" movement. According to Tibetan sources, the Chinese authorities are giving money and essentially forcing Tibetans in the TAR to celebrate Losar (The Tibetan New Year). This is, however, in disagreement with Tibetan custom mandating a mourning period of one year and a restriction on all celebration. Many Tibetans lost loved ones in the March Uprisings last year and so are unwilling to celebrate Losar as it has traditionally been done in the past. In response, the TYC has organized a movement to encourage Tibetans in exile to honor the suppressed wishes of their brethren and to not celebrate. Instead, there will be religious services and supposedly a hunger strike. If our homestays are any indications, such a proposal is going to be universally respected in these parts (which I guess is why I'm not too sad about missing the second two days for Ramya's wedding).

All of this was confirmed by the current speaker of parliament, Karma Chophel who came to speak with us in class and also got his start in politics with the TYC. He explained the structure of the Tibetan government and it is especially interesting to see the dynamics between Religious institutions aka Monastaries and the State of which H.H Dalai Lama is regarded the highest positions in both instances. Though they are technically separate (and provide a solid secular education via the TCV (Tibetan Children's Village), monasteries provide some of the largest monetary donations neccessary for infrastructure in Tibetan settlements. Other donors we learned from Tsering Dorjee, jt. secretary of home aka department of the interior, include individuals like Richard Gere, and governments like Ireland and Norway (the former I find particularly ironic given the whole NRA-ish). The tibetan government or rather the Central Tibetan Administration as it is called due to political reasons, is surprisingly accessible. A group of us just walked into the building to get an interview with Tsering Dorjee. It really is a struggle for them, always having to toe the PC line. A few years ago, when Chophel first became speaker, the Parliament was called an Assembly because of pressure from the Indian government (who of course felt pressure from the Chinese).

The whole thing is rather discouraging...giving one the impression that the CTA really has no power (which may or may not be true). Also, as an interesting sidenote, Chophel disagrees with the Dalai Lama and his Middle Way policy as does, some think, the current Prime Minister. The politics of this issue are growing with each day H.H grows older. I predict this to be the cause of many fireworks in the future. Though many lay people still agree with the Middle Way, my Pala made an interesting point when I asked him about the issue. He said that the Chinese just have so many people and compulsory military service. If Tibetans in exile were to fight for Tibet, they would first face their own brothers and sisters...Tibetans forced to serve in the military by the Chinese. What a mess. Though negotiations have been ongoing, Tibetans here aren't holding their breath. And I certainly don't blame them.

It's absolutely amazing hearing these stories from people around here. I think Mackenzie's host mother really put the whole thing in perspective. Originally, the host family was hosting another girl on the program, but that girl left due to personal issues including homesickness. Mackenzie then moved in because apparently her host family decided to be in Delhi the whole time (weird and confusing, I know) But anway, Mackenzie's new Amala said, "[The other girl] was only here for a few weeks and she went home because of homesickness, but I haven't seen my home or family in fifteen years." It's stories like that which really put things in perspective.