I Saw the Sky Fall

So I'm back from my trek across the Solu region. It was absolutely beautiful, the mountains stunning, the walks fabulous, the views breath taking. We basically moved from village to village that are inhabited by Sherpa, Tibetans, and Nepali. Some are quite deserted. The latest phenomenon is to come across villages with really old people and really young people. The middle generations are all leaving for better opportunities in big cities. For the first couple of days we were just getting to know one of the small towns called Chialsa. It used to be a major carpet factory town, but since the bottom dropped in the 90s, it now resembles a ghost town. We did, however, have the opportunity to meet this six foot five monk who lived by himself at a temple dedicated to Padmasambhava, the guru who introducted Buddhism in Tibet (our group is kind of obsessed with him). Anyway, this monk was absolutely incredible. He was actually born in Nepal, his family moved back to Tibet when he was a baby though because the weather didn't agree with them. He later returned when he was twenty or so to be with his grandmother and aunt who remained at a monastery we would later visit called Thupten Choling. It is a monastery headed by one of His Holiness' teachers. Anyway, a couple of years ago he tried to go back to Tibet to visit his family, and ended up being arrested and put in a chinese jail for six months. Talk about intense. When he finally ended up seeing his family, he fully admitted that it would be his last time seeing them ever again. He said it all so stoically, it was unreal. For now, he pretty much lives in retreat. Occasionally he'll get visitors for a pooja or by anis (nuns) from Thupten Choling, but he's really happy with his solitary lifestyle.

So after our adventuring in Chailsa, we moved to Junbesi. Junbesi was fun for the first day, but the second day I got sick. and I mean miserable sick. I think I lost about three kilos. For awhile they were thinking of sending me back down to Phaplu, which thank god they didn't because I would have missed the whole trip. And hey, if I had to be sick I would prefer that it was in the gorgeous mountains than a boring village, and I liked being with the group still. It did mean, however, that I missed out on seeing Thupten Choling. Which sucked because that was a major reason for our trek. On the other hand, I visited a local village doctor which was an interesting experience. The assistants looked twelve, but they were definitely prescribing heavy medication. I also thought it was interesting that while the patients were all Tibetans, the doctors were all Nepali. It must create an interesting dynamic. After Junbesi, our group was planning on going higher up into the mountain (keep in mind that at this point we were still at like 9800 feet above sea level, so it's not like it was low), but the area got an unexpected bout of rains which meant heavy snow in the mountains, which meant that we really weren't prepared, and so had to quit that idea real fast. Instead we spent the days visiting sherpa gompas (monasteries) in the area. One was really elaborate and the other pretty normal looking....I never did get a satisfactory answer as to why there was such a disparity. But I suppose that is Nepal.

So after our romping around the mountains, we returned to phaplu. Possibly one of the most boring villages ever, but one of the bigger ones in the area. Only when we returned we discovered that bad weather was forcing the postponing of flights. We also needed two flights because our group was so big at 27. By the second day, we were all super antsy. Finally, one plane was allowed to take off...unfortunately I wasn't on it. The second plane came half way to Phaplu before turning around due to "weather." So for about three hours, the five students that were left were super depressed. We indulged in some yak cheese, and were hanging out at a local restaurant when we discovered that a guide that we were with arranged a Helicopter to fly us out! It was so ridiculous/wonderful. So we surprised all of our friends by just popping in later that afternoon. It was soooo sweet, and the hot shower never felt so damn good. So you see, good things really do come to those who wait, and our trek had the most exciting ending of all.

For now, we have just started ISP. Having this much freedom is quite daunting. Our time has been soooo scheduled for what feels like forever; but I suspect I am going to enjoy this last leg most of all. I've only just started work on the Tibetan Carpet Industry, but I think my paper is going to be about how economics/money flow influences identity politics between different ethnic groups involved in the carpet industry. Pretty fun stuff if you ask me....plus I am now an expert on all things carpets and will never be ripped off; in a couple days I'm actually going to start learning how to weave, which I'm definitely excited about. Although my carpet will be small and ugly because I won't know how to do anything else.

Aiight, I'm off to do actual work for ISP and transcription of notes, etc. UGH

Till next time! Subha Raatri (Good Night in Nepali)